Do not hate me too much


Game Over


Dear friends,

I got to Istambul and that means my Eastern Trip is over. I crossed the Bosphorus from the Asian Side and now you can say I am back to Europe. It has been such a long and hard journey. What can I say? It has been horrible and beautiful, I met the worst and the best people, I felt really alone in the middle of nowhere and very happy with all kinds of new friends.

But Istambul is like a good prize. I have not enough words to express my emotions staying in Bizancio, Constantinopla and Istambul. This city is History it self, is two Worlds touching each other, it is three cities and is also a very special place to be. And is also chaotic, noisy and deeply Turkish. I feel at home here. I have had a good rest here but is time to keep moving.

Be well.



Just a moment to share this.

Enjoy. I almost fell down.



Dear friends:

I am in Georgia. It was a surprise because in the Georgian Border at Lagodekhi no one shouted at me, no one asked for money and no one looked at my passport searching for any sort of fake, criminal signal or lack of validity. No visa needing for European Citizens and easy getting vehicles. And after the short procedure, they told me: Welcome Georgia. And I really appreciated what does it mean when just few km I stopped in at a small bar. There were 8 guys, big as castles. They invited me to join them for eating and drinking. All of them hated Russia. We were at the North of the Country and the Russian Invasion was really near in the time. The Russian troops are still in South Ossetia, where is forbidden to go for foreigners. These Minor Asia region is a puzzle. Armenian Troops, supported by Russia, are in Acerbaijan territory of Nagorno Karabagh, so the border is closed; is also closed the border between Armenia and Turkey. So you have to look properly the map to not going into the wrong place.

Georgia is very good. Poor country but green and wet. Very good watermelons here. Afer so long riding deserts, I am really happy riding forest mountains, bends and twisted roads. From the road, you can see the castles and monasteries on the hills. There are haundreds beside the rust and abandoned factorys. I also visited Gory, Stalin´s Birthplace. A mad nightmare to celebrate the most dangerous guy on Earth. He married two times and his two wifes died before. The last one killed herself, I can guess why. But nothing about purges and crimes is told in the museum. Even when Georgia has moved away all the communism staff which is still visible in Ukrain, Russia, Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan.

Finally I got the Black Sea shore side, which is more or less their California beach road but with no palm trees and no bikini models walking around, but is Ok, because it means I am arriving Turkey.



I am in Baku, at last. It took us 5 hours just in the customs. Inept officials, stupid protocols and too much paperwork. My friends left yesterday but I stayed to see Baku. Acerbaijan capital is a crazy city, the petrol money runs free on the streets and there is high consumption fever. The most expensive cars, the most exclusive shops, the highest skyscrapers just beside the old Muslim town. I met three Scotish guys last night. Baku is full of them, it´s called Little Aberdeen. They work in the petrol business and spend one month here working and drinking and one month off at home, drinking as well. We hit of and had good drinking night. But today I leave to Shaki, a little town on the Caucasus mountains and tomorrow go to Georgia, the small country in permanent cold (and sometimes hot) war against Russia. Georgia makes good wine and is the birthplace of that great killer called Joseph Stalin. I will visit his village, Gory, and his museum. It gonna be interesting.


The love boat


Dear friends.

We are in the ferry expecting arriving Baku by 2 pm. It had been just five days waiting. I meet Sam and Silvan in Aktau three days ago. That morning I was running along the beach and saw two dirty beggars sat on the walk side. When I approached, I realised it was them. We spent the night at my room and the following morning went into the port to ask about “parom” (ferry). It was expected to arrive by noon and leave by the evening . Great happiness. But that was Kazakhstan.

Of course, the ferry left the evening, but in the following day. So we camped in the parking and we waited. When we bought the tikets started the research for the 1000 stamps they need to be good for travelling. Customs, police, veterinary, firemen… three stamps each one and different colours. The most difficult issue was finding the right guy for the right stamp. 40 degrees of heat and to many guys to look for.

Then, when the ferry arrived at morning, passport control. Like animals, one by one was checked and kept in a cowshed. Few hours passed till we went out. The ferry, Merkuri 1, looked crappy and rust, but beautiful in the sun. Perhaps we can go into, we desired. Too good to be true. We had to wait in the parking lot till they put off all the wagons kept in the ship´s hold. Few hours passed. Then, another control. The soldiers were going to check the luggage looking for drugs and guns and radioactive material and forbidden portraits of their sacred president having sex with a sheep. But they were not really interested but in getting some money. No way, friend, I told to them when they asked for “tengue” if I wanted not to be checked. I have time, said. So you should do your work. I opened my suitcases and menaced to spread all the staff on the floor. Davai, davai, they gave up.

What about the boat? Not the Love one. In the hold, no ropes and no help to tie the bikes. I did it my self with my own straps. Sweated like coming up from a Turkish Bath, I went into the reception. The four ugliest women in Earth were waiting in the front desk to give us the key and take our passports. No smiles at all. A customer is always a suspicious guy. Still in the Soviet Thinking Way. Of course, the cabin not was so dirty, hot and humid as you are imaging right now. No, it was much worse. I the lesson of my Central Asia Trip: expect always the worst and you will get it but even worse. Only because I am mad I find it funny.

Keep safe and do not travel ever to Central Asia.